Star Wars Prop - Base Hacker System
Electronics Wing Control Panel Upgrades
Wing Panels - Problems and Issues
Problems to Solve
In addition to the unreliable electronics there was the issue of how to get at the electronics and the physical construction issues.
When the prop was first built, I just went for the simple solution of screwing the panels to the 5mm wing box walls.
Problems are with method are that:
The walls are thing so the screws can break thought the sides.
Continual screwing in and out just damages the wood both on the sides and panels requiring new location which ruins the appearance, making holes and broken wood.
The fit is inconsistent and the screws may get in the way when closing the prop.
Solutions Inner Box and Holding Bolts
I decided with the new right hand wing box to add an inner set of walls so the inner and outer walls could interconnect and fit better and in a stable position.
This also enabled me to fit holding bolts that when through both sets of walls and these bolds just slide in and out,.
They can be painted a similar colour to the walls.
An alterantive would be the attach some kit bas components to these bolts to hide there true purpose.
Thus a quick and easy way to open and close them

Solution 2 - Place Components on Circuit Boards Not in
Wiring and Connect to Light up Switches with Junction Boxes
These new walls in combination with improving the electronics to all the componets bar the lit up switches is on a circut board including the resisters and a power on switch and LED on indicator.
This time some thick wires were soldered onto the light up switches to fit into cable junction boxes to connect to the power circuit boards which could then be screwed into the wing base to hold them in place.
A second back up circuit board for the light up switches could be added.
The other battery boxes for the fake screen and electroluminescent light up wire were velcroed into place.
Left Wing Upgrades

Securing Battery Packs with Velcro
The battery packs needed to be secured in place, especially given the problem with the damaged and loose LED strip ribbons. I used stick on Velcro, adding extra glue to bod the Velcro with the fluffy soft side on my battery packs so they could be carried in pockets when not used on the prob without scratching.
Lighting the Front Tubing
The front tubes had broken off and needing fixing anyway.
I thought I would use the opportunity to try to light the breathing tubes on the front by drilling through the case front where the tubes connect. I then fed through the spare electroluminescent string into the tubes.
To re-glue I combined hot glue gun glue with superglue.

The hot glue being cement like filling in gaps and having some flex.
The superglue being an instant fix when used with activator spray.
The electroluminescence string looks like plasma technology but not bright. I would like the tubes to being much brighter when lit., I would need to be in dim light to be seen, especially given there is spray paint on top.
Replacing LED and Upgrading Attachment
When I installed the LED strips first time, having had a hard time trying to glue as nothing stuck, I had tried a staple gun which resulted in accidently putting a staple through the strips disrupting the wiring so it was flaky on and off and unreliable.
As well as velcroing the battery pack I found clips that I could pin the LED strips down with.
I used my glue gun to attach the clips as the glue that came with them was useless.
Some of the clips needed trimming to fit.
I also drilled a hole for the infra-red sensors on the receiver for remote control as my phone was to be in side the prop when being displayed.
What I still have a problem with is that the USB battery packs I have seem to have a sensor and timer on them which switches off after a short time which means I need to open the unit with an electric screw driver.
The LED strips consistantly failed and needed replacement, leading me to think of removing them all together or trying coloured light up ribbon not LEDs
